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A history of perfume
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The New Look |
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Just as in 1920 Roger & Gallet had created Triomphe de France to commemorate the victory, perfumers in 1945 celebrate the return of Peace : Patou launches L'Heure Attendue, Nina Ricci Coeur Joie, Elsa Schiaparelli Le Roy Soleil, in an astounding flask designed by her friend Salvador Dali.
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After years of sacrifice and violent ostracism, the political situation remains unstable, marked by the cold war and the de-colonization struggles. At the same time France gradually assimilates American society, the nation of liberators.
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France discovers big Hollywood film productions, while French women read Marie-France, Marie-Claire, or Elle which discuss topics such as the home, fashion and love, just like in American magazines. A new generation of creators appears, as inventive as they are talented.
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With the major women's perfumes of the time bearing such names as Chypre by Coty, L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar and Vol de Nuit by Guerlain, Tabac Blond by Caron, N°5 by Chanel, Arpège by Lanvin,... the perfume composer Edmond Roudnitska creates the famed Femme perfume in 1944 which the fashion designer Marcel Rochas will launch in 1945. A flask bearing rounded shoulders and a wasp's waistline, much like the models used by Michel Rochas, inventor of the bustier (long line bra) and the guèpière (basque), adorns this romantic yet classic perfume.
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Other fashion designers launch their products, also among the classics of French perfume : Vent Vert by Balmain, Ma Griffe by Carven, Bandit by Piguet composed by Germaine Cellier, L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, Miss Dior created by Jean Carles for Christian Dior...
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This young fashion designer, who opens shop in 1945 under the insistence of the businessman Marcel Boussac, launches the New Look fashion. "We were emerging from a period of war, uniforms, female soldiers built like boxers. I was drawing female flowers with soft shoulders, full busts, waists as slim as liana and corolla skirts" Christian Dior
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In the fifties France is economically restructured and socially modernized : consumer society begins to take shape, answering the French's aspiration towards prosperity. Mass culture, born in the United States and exported the world over, emerges, imposing an essentially American model. Industrially produced and efficiently distributed, it homogenizes the different publics tit addresses.
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As Pierre Cardin and Hubert de Givenchy sign their first collections, the young generation adopts the blue jean and rock 'n roll, come from the United States.
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Perfumers who had until then worked independently or for perfume manufacturers, now begin working with raw materials companies specializing in perfume such as the French Roure, the American International Flavors and Fragrances (I.F.F.) or the Swiss Firmenich and Givaudan, and create the new fashion designers' perfumes. These include the three masculine scents Diorissimo by Dior, Cabochard by Grès or Vétiver by Carven, Givenchy and Guerlain. In the United States, this era is marked by Revlon's Ultimate and then Estée Lauder's Youth Dew.
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Edmond Roudnitska |
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Some perfume creations by Edmond Roudnitska
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