ROSE Rosa centifolia L.
Rosa damascena var. tringintipetala
ROSACEAE
A flower with about thirty regular petals, long
stamens, piriform ovaries, and an elongated calyx. The greenish-yellow
stem is practically free of thorns.
The centifolia Rose or May Rose is cultivated in France only in
the Grasse region, at Fayence and Montauroux in the Var. This rosebush
must be planted in an area which is neither too hot nor too dry.
It needs about 700 to 900 mm of water annually with a summer dry
season.
The Damas rose requires a favorable climate with moderate temperatures
and humidity, in a well-ventilated soil not too rich in calcium
salts.
Blooming
period
From late April through may in sunny places. Suckers are used almost
without exception.
Fabrication
Flowers are treated by distillation
and extraction.
Only the damascena is used to obtain essential oils (4,000 kilos
of flowers for 1 kilo of essence). Centifolia and Damascena are
both extracted using volatile solvents. The output varies between
17% and 27% of concrete yielding 55% to 65% of absolute. High-temperature
maceration in fat was used before. One mustn't forget however that
the rose is the western world's most idealized flower. "Roses gone
by call from on high to the rose garden. You who need a tall ladder
to risk your life. Take care not to stray. Leave this world like
the rose's essence running through the perfumer's still..."RUMI
Odor
Rose, honey-laden, sweet and strong.
Applications
> Perfume.
> Cosmetics : rose essence figures in a wide variety of compositions,
extracts, tinctures, beauty-milks, pomades, cosmetic oils. Rose
water is used in eaux de toilettes and make-ups... the rosebush's
dried petals are used to make rose powder or perfumed sacks.
> Pastry.
> Preserves.
> Pharmaceutical : roses are astringent and their essence is
a potent antiseptic.
Some
perfumes
incorporating
Rose
Anaïs Anaïs, Cacharel Rose, Caron So Pretty, Cartier N°5, Chanel Bal à Versailles, Jean Desprez Nahéma, Guerlain Eternity, Calvin Klein Kenzo, Kenzo Amazone, Hermès Arpège, Lanvin Calandre, Paco Rabanne Joy, Patou Madame Rochas, Marcel Rochas Air du Temps, Nina Ricci Paris, Yves
Saint Laurent